The magnificent High Atlas is the mightiest mountain range in the Atlas Mountains with peaks almost as high as the Alps or Rocky Mountains. Its tallest peak Mount Toubkal, at 4167 meters above sea level, is the highest point in Morocco and North Africa. Therefore it is a very popular destination for mountaineers and hikers.

The mountain village of Imlil with Mount Toubkal (top right)
The mountain village of Imlil with Mount Toubkal (top right)

 

Before we came to Imlil, we visited the metropolis of Marrakesh at the southwestern foot of the High Atlas Mountains for the third time in our lives after 1986 and 1987.It's the most famous city of Morocco with a lot of exciting museums, palaces and more culture, and also the eponym for Morocco. Its Medina has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985 and the huge main square Jemma el Fnaa - The assembly of Death - was the first entry on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008.

Jemaa el-Fnaa at night
Jemaa el-Fnaa at night

 

Lady with a leopard dress on the Jemaa el-Fnaa
Lady with a leopard dress on the Jemaa el-Fnaa

 

Our fantastic overnight staying place Tamssoult Ougmadane between Agadir and Marrakesh
Our fantastic overnight staying place Tamssoult Ougmadane between Agadir and Marrakesh

 

We were a bit disappointed with Marrakesh, for example in 1986/87 we had seen many storytellers (in Berber), jugglers, snake charmers and other oriental spectacles. In April 2024 we saw very few of them, but too many street vendors, restaurants and tourists. Loud and smelly motorcycles raced more or less constantly through the very narrow streets of the Medina, putting people in danger.

Nevertheless, even today it is still a fascinating, even breathtaking city in which we spent three wonderful days. Horrifying were the destroyed buildings caused by the earthquake on September 8, 2023, which killed almost 3,000 people.

Ruined house in Marrakesh
Ruined house in Marrakesh

 

Color powder in Marrakesh
Color powder in Marrakesh

 

Typical shop in Marrakesh
Typical shop in Marrakesh

 

Marion, Alfred Jutta and Hermann with the Koutoubia mosque and its 77 meters high Minaret tower (built in the 12th century)
Marion, Alfred Jutta and Hermann with the Koutoubia mosque and its 77 meters high Minaret tower (built in the 12th century)

 

Mural in Marrakesh
Mural in Marrakesh

 

Hermann, Jutta and Marion with a rainbow on the Place des Ferblantiers
Hermann, Jutta and Marion with a rainbow on the Place des Ferblantiers

 

Three African Ladies in Marrakesh's Bahia Palace, built in the mid to late 19th century
Three African Ladies in Marrakesh's Bahia Palace, built in the mid to late 19th century

 

The weather forecast was excellent in mid-March 2024, so we headed to Imlil, the best access point to most of the 4,000-meter peaks of the High Atlas. We knew Imlil very well from our first itinerary to Morocco with our two and half years daughter Eva and Marion's brother Tommy in 1986. Unfortunately the road from Asni to Imlil was in very bad condition due to road construction work, but somehow we made it with our not too big campers.

A lot of transportation in Imlil is still done with donkeys and mules
A lot of transportation in Imlil is still done with donkeys and mules

 

Motorcycles are also widespread
Motorcycles are also widespread

 

Interesting and extraordinary camper on the beautiful and quiet overnight spot at the entrance to Imlil
Interesting and extraordinary camper on the beautiful and quiet overnight spot at the entrance to Imlil

 

As in April 1986, we wanted to go to Toubkal Mountain Hut, which is a strenuous five-hour hike. Marion felt a bit weak due to an infection and explored the surroundings of Imlil in detail with Jutta and Hermann. Nowadays, a mountain guide is mandatory to access Toubkal National Park, so Alfred hired the lovely Yassin from the Imlil mountain guide office for little money. He organized the transport of Alfred's heavy backpack and the reservation in the hut.

In April 1986 we brought our ski mountaineering equipment to the hut, but in March 2024 there was not enough snow to ski. Even some people hiked to the summit of the 4,167-meter-high Toubkal in sneakers, although some sections were icy early in the morning.

Eva was very brave in 1986 because she rode mainly on a mule between our skis and backpacks to the Toubkal hut
Eva was very brave in 1986 because she rode mainly on a mule between our skis and backpacks to the Toubkal hut

 

The tiny village Sidi Chamarouch which is half the way between Imlil and Toubkal hut
The tiny village Sidi Chamarouch which is half the way between Imlil and Toubkal hut

 

In 1986 there was only one building - Toubkal Hut, but now there is almost a little village there
In 1986 there was only one building - Toubkal Hut, but now there is almost a little village there

 

Ice falls close to the Toubkal hut
Ice falls close to the Toubkal hut

 

Eva took a bath at 3,207 meters above sea level - there are now hot showers in the hut
Eva took a bath at 3,207 meters above sea level - there are now hot showers in the hut

 

Eva really liked the Manager of the Toubkal hut, a wonderful elderly man. She told him many stories in German, which of course he didn't understand. His only German word was Ja – Yes, which he often used in response to Eva's tales. He was incredibly patient while listening to our daughter and she really enjoyed it. When Alfred was in the cabin with Yassin, he asked about this man, and sure enough, his grandson is now the caretaker of the Toubkal hut. He told Alfred that his grandfather was in his eighties when we were at Toubkal Hut with Eva and that he lived to be over 100 years old.

The former Manager of the Toubkal hut in the year 1986 - that's exactly how we remember him
The former Manager of the Toubkal hut in the year 1986 - that's exactly how we remember him

 

The mountain huts were almost full because many people wanted to reach the summit of Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa. On the first day, Yassin and Alfred climbed the 4083 meter high Ras Ouanoukrim - the head, the 4088 meter high Timesguida - the mosque and the 3869 meter high Bou Ouzzal in a pristine, secluded setting. Only one other group did the same tour on a sunny day. Crampons were useful early in the morning as the snow on the steeper northern slopes was hard and partly little icy.

Marion ski toured on top of Ras Ouanoukrim with her brother Tommy in April 1986 while Alfred looked after our little daughter.

The Spanish group on the climb to Ras Ouanoukrim with the mighty Toubkal behind them
The Spanish group on the climb to Ras Ouanoukrim with the mighty Toubkal behind them

 

Summit of the 4,083 meters high Ras Ouanoukrim
Summit of the 4,083 meters high Ras Ouanoukrim

 

Strong Spanish Lady with Yassin on the summit of Timesguida at 4,088 meters above sea level!
Strong Spanish Lady with Yassin on the summit of Timesguida at 4,088 meters above sea level!

 

Penitent ice cones on the descent from Timesguida
Penitent ice cones on the descent from Timesguida

 

On the following following day - March 19th 2024 - Alfred and Yassin hiked with a lot of people to the top of 4,167 meters high Toubkal very early in the morning. We made a short deviation to the secondary peak Toubkal West (4,018 meters sea-level) where we were totally alone and watched the crowd moving to the main peak. Alfred ski toured Toubkal with Tommy in April 1986. Now it's his highest summit where he has been twice, and with skies and on a hike.

Close to the summit of Toubkal West with Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim on the top right
Close to the summit of Toubkal West with Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim on the top right

 

Alfred on the 4018 meter high Toubkal West, wearing only a light jacket, at 8 a.m
Alfred on the 4018 meter high Toubkal West, wearing only a light jacket, at 8 a.m

 

Tommy on the summit of Toubkal in April 1986. In contrast to March 2024, it was extremely cold. On the right side are the then snow-covered mountains Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim
Tommy on the summit of Toubkal in April 1986. In contrast to March 2024, it was extremely cold. On the right side are the then snow-covered mountains Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim

 

The descent was endless - from the 4,167 meter high Toubkal to the 1,600 meter high village of Imlil. Because of his bad knees, Alfred went down very slowly. And Yassin was very thirsty and hungry because it was Ramadan, which meant he couldn't eat or drink when the sun was shining - we had breakfast at 2:30am, so he wanted to be home for dinner as soon as the sun went down. It was already dusk when we reached the first houses in the upper part of Imlil. Luckily Yassin has a friend there and he rented him his little motorbike. It was an unforgettable experience for Alfred to sit behind Yassin in the very small seat and drive over 300 meters down a very steep, narrow, bumpy and winding road.

The weather forecast was rainy on the next day so we literally fled before the street to Imlil became really ugly. We found a decent campsite in the northern suburban of Marrakesh were we relaxed two days. A side story of a nice "German" Police Officer in Marrakesh:

As we drove through Marrakesh in rush hour traffic, we had to pass through an old gate - no problem even with our 3.1 meter high camper. There was a second gate, as well as a third and fourth gates. There was some renovation work on the latter and a V-shaped scaffolding was built in it. There was no way to get through with our motor-home and we were literally stuck because we couldn't turn in the heavy Marrakesh rush hour traffic. Pedestrians advised us to use the lane in the other direction that bypasses this old gate - but how could we do that at rush hour? Luckily, Marion saw a police officer on the other side of the gate and asked him what he should do. He smiled and replied in German: “No problem – I am a German living in Morocco.” Of course he came from Morocco. He stopped traffic in the oncoming lane. The cars in the other direction halted, but the motorcycles ignored his stop sign. Carefully, very carefully, we used this only oncoming lane, feeling like we were in a swarm of bees, as many motorcycles whirled around us. Then we had to drive about a hundred meters in the wrong direction until we reached a roundabout. Luckily the opposite road became two lanes after the gate but we still caused a traffic jam until we achieved the roundabout. A lot of people were smiling and laughing but no one seemed angry at us.

Since more rain and strong winds were predicted, we abandoned our original plan to travel parallel and northwest to the High Atlas and explore some areas such as the Happy Valley, said to be one of the most beautiful regions in Morocco. Instead we crossed the 2260 meter high Tizi n'Tichka Pass into the dry Draa Valley on the southeastern side of the High Atlas.

Our first destination there was the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ait Ben Haddou, a magnificent example of Moroccan adobe architecture in a stunning desert-like setting. A large number of film shot were produced here, for instance Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Jesus of Nazareth.

Old arc with the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou
Old arc with the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou

 

Mural in Ait Ben Haddou
Mural in Ait Ben Haddou

 

The landscape between Ait Ben Haddou and Itlouane
The landscape between Ait Ben Haddou and Itlouane with a full moon and Marion

 

Fully loaded truck with a Kasbah like hotel in Itlouane
Fully loaded truck with a Kasbah like hotel in Itlouane

 

Twenty kilometers southeast of Ait Ben Haddou lies the district capital and largest city in the Draa Valley, Ouarzazate, the center of the Moroccan film industry. There we explored the area surrounding Atlas Studios, including the interesting Oscar Hotel, where many film stars have stayed and will stay. Many famous films such as Gladiator, The Jewel of the Nile and Game of Thrones were produced at Atlas Studios.

Walls of the Atlas Studios
Walls of the Atlas Studios

 

Movie stars like Mr Bean / Rowan Atkinson (very right) acted in Ouarzazate
Movie stars like Mr Bean / Rowan Atkinson (very right) acted in Ouarzazate

 

Queen of Dragon's throne in the Oscar Hotel
Queen of Dragon's throne in the Oscar Hotel

 

We found a perfect place to spend the night at the artificial lake Barrage Al Mansour Ad Dahbi, 30 kilometers east of Ouarzazate. Here too we had some rain and storms. We were able to see the 3578 meter high Bou Ouriol mountain and the Tizi n'Tichka pass, which we have mixed memories of our second visit to Morocco with our four-year-old daughter - A side story about Noachian flood / deluche in Morocco;

Alfred climbed Bou Ouriol mountain in October 1987 on a warm day with some sun, starting from the Tizi n'Tichka pass. In the evening we drove into a side valley a few kilometers south of the pass. Near where we were staying, near a small village, there was a small stream separated from the road by a wall. Heavy rain began during the night. In the morning we discovered that the stream was a river with water higher than our road. We immediately turned around and parked on a higher road. It continued to rain all day. It rained all night and the next day too. Three days later, early in the morning, the rain stopped and we decided to continue driving a few kilometers to the next village as we were running low on food. We drove very carefully and checked every stream that crossed the road on foot before crossing it with our car. We were already seeing the village when a small stream crossed the road and we were tired. So we drove in and our little camper took a big hit followed by an ugly noise. Luckily it popped out, but the two front wheels were 90° misaligned. We literally hobbled a few hundred meters to this village where a nice man helped us dismantle the bent tie rod. He took a larger stone and hammered it until the bent tie rod was more or less straight. We had a little argument about how to mount the tie rod, but eventually we sorted it out and were able to continue the long journey back to Germany without any problems. We were very lucky because some people, including tourists, died in this deluche.

On the way to Dades Gorge we passed the small town of Kalaat M'Gouna, where we had enjoyed the annual Rose Festival in May 1986
On the way to Dades Gorge we passed the small town of Kalaat M'Gouna, where we had enjoyed the annual Rose Festival in May 1986

 

We found an excellent campsite in the Dades Gorges opposite the lower viewpoint Canyon des Doigts du Singe – Monkey Fingers. As we entered the gorge below this viewpoint, a young man unexpectedly accompanied us. It proved to be very helpful for orientation in the Canyon des Doigts du Singe. Of course, he received a small tip for the breathtaking two-hour hike.

Hermann
Hermann "holds" a huge rock in the Canyon des Doigts du Singe

 

Jutta in an extremely narrow part of the Canyon des Doigts du Singextremely narrow part of the Canyon des Doigts du Singe
Jutta in an extremely narrow part of the Canyon des Doigts du Singe

 

Alfred, Marion, Jutta and Hermann at the upper viewpoint
Alfred, Marion, Jutta and Hermann at the upper viewpoint

 

Jutta and Hermann with a delicious Tajine in our camper that we got from the owners of the Camping Doigts du Singe
Jutta and Hermann with a delicious Tajine in our camper that we got from the owners of the Camping Doigts du Singe

 

The next day we headed through the steep and narrow section of the Dades gorge to the awesome viewpoint near the Timzzillite regional restaurant on a good paved road with many hairpin bends.

We were there in 1986 too, but the road was a typical dirt road. We had two teachers hitchhiking from the Rose Festival in Kalaat M'Gouna in our car and spent a very nice evening with them in their house a few kilometers above the Timzzillite Regional Restaurant. In the morning we had continued on a terrible road over the High Atlas to Imilchil, known for its wedding market. But somehow we and our car made it in May 1986.

This time we returned and visited Todra Gorge, where we also had an exceptional place to stay overnight near the climbing area.

Our camper on the awful dirt road to Imilchil in May 1986
Our camper on the awful dirt road to Imilchil in May 1986

 

The Kasbah of Imilchil in 1986
The Kasbah of Imilchil in 1986

 

A supermarket and our camper in the Dades Gorge in 2024
A supermarket and our camper in the Dades Gorge in 2024

 

Marion cycled from the Timzzillite Regional Restaurant down the Dades Gorge (at the first hairpin bend) on the now paved road.s Gorge (at the first hairpin bend) on the now paved road from the Timzzillite Regional Restaurant
Marion cycled from the Timzzillite Regional Restaurant down the Dades Gorge (at the first hairpin bend) on the now paved road

 

Two men in traditional clothing at the viewpoint Ait Boujane at the entrance of the Todra Gorge
Two men in traditional clothing at the viewpoint Ait Boujane at the entrance of the Todra Gorge

 

In the Todra Gorge we climbed the excellent, not too difficult and short but airy via ferrata a few meters from where we spent the night. The circular route to Jbel Asstef was a wonderful but strenuous hike where we saw people who lived near the summit on its eastern slope. Every day they have to haul all the water two hours deeper from the gorge - luckily they have donkeys and mules. We can hardly imagine how these people survive here in this extremely dry environment without electricity and all the other amenities we are used to.

Marion on what is probably Africa's only via ferrata
Marion on what is probably Africa's only via ferrata

 

Busy Todra gorge
Busy Todra gorge

 

Hermann and Marion with Moroccan whisky - Strong peppermint / black tea with lots of sugar
Hermann and Marion with Moroccan whisky - Strong peppermint / black tea with lots of sugar

 

Summit - Two notes: Jbel Asstef is 1961 meters high and you can see the three different scripts in Morocco - top two lines Arabic, Berber and Latin below
Summit - Two notes: Jbel Asstef is 1961 meters high and you can see the three different scripts in Morocco - top two lines Arabic, Berber and Latin below

 

Settlement on the eastern slope of Jbel Asstef
Settlement on the eastern slope of Jbel Asstef

 

Entrance to a cave dwelling in the settlement
Entrance to a cave dwelling in the settlement

 

From the Todra gorge we headed northeastwards to the Mediterranean Sea - that's the next article.

Most of our overnight staying places and hikes are in included in our GPS coordinates file of Morocco.

 

For more pictures, please click here

For a map of our itineraries, click here

To download our GPS file of Morocco, click here

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Comments  
#1 Gefeke 2024-06-15 19:17
und wieder einmal habe ich Eure Zeilen aufgesaugt, ... tolle Bilder habt Ihr eingefangen - besonders wenn Ihr alte Bilder mit einbezieht -
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